Zevon wrote:
> So my totally inexperienced friend washed some cocaine with acetone in
> his kitchen.
>
> Emboldened, he is and wants to take kitchen purification to the next
> level!
>
> What He knows:
>
> 1) How to make proper base
>
> 2) Find potassium permanganate in a fish store
>
> 3) Wash the base in water
>
> 4) That base mixed with acetone will precipitate back to salt if HCL
> is carefully added.
>
>
> His limitations:
>
> 1) Has no clue HOW or (even how much or how long) to use potassium
> permanganate!
>
> 2) If he did use it to burn off junk he has no clue how to separate
> the purified base from the junk.
>
> 3) Has no clue what QUANTITY or CONCENTRATION of HCL to add to his
> solution of base in acetone - OR HOW MUCH base to acetone he should
> use.
>
> 4) Will not touch a non-polar stronger than Zippo (likewise has no
> idea where when or how he might use it in the "process" (It sounded
> like a bad idea to me)
>
> So this guy asks ME to HELP!
>
> As I have NO idea - I agreed to ask for the info he needs here...
>
> Details, Numbers, Concentrations, Ratios - ALL SO CRITICAL!
>
> Anyone?
>
>
> THANKS!
>
> WZ
>
>
The best way(s) to purify coke is/are:
First decide if you want base/rock(A.K.A crack), or powder (the salt,
Cocaine Hydrochloride)
To get rock:
Let's assume you have a gram of cut powder you want to turn into rock.
Place powder in a test tube,(best to use) or a small jar, or better yet
a CLEAR drinking glass.
Then add 10 - 15 ml's of supermarket-bought Ammonia solution.
(Pure ammonia is, of course, a gas, [that condenses/liquifies at -##
Celcius] & the ammonia available at the supermarket is a 5% solution of
the gas in water)
Powder should, at least partialy, (usualy totally, well not "totally" to
the ****d eye, because cut will not dissolve.) Then, heat gently
w/lighter, or better yet, a pencil, or other small, butane-fueled torch,
until powder dissolves, (but first, filter out the cut...) ...if it
hadsn't already dissolved. DO NOT heat to strongly, just enough to be
high-end-warm - to - low-end-hot. (Approx 60 Celcius/6\10'ths boiling
temperature) It should initially take approx 10 - 20 seconds of heat to
attain this temp, unless you don't have a test tube, and are using a
small jar/glass, in which case, use your stove; element should be set on
high, contact w/element should be brief, mostly you'll want to hold
jar/glass 1/2 inch above element, so as not to break the jar/glass from
thermal (heat) shock. Then w/a test tube, contact w/flame 10-15 seconds,
then place the bottom end under cold running water for 5 - 10 seconds.
With a jar or glass, allow a 5 - 10 second pause after removal from heat
b-4 cooling w/H2O. Continue this heating & cooling process (It will take
approx 5 - 10 times) until the rock is fully formed...
(Some dissolving may occur when heating, but the cooling will solidify
it. Gauge by eye the size of the purified rock, taking into account, the
shrinkage factor, due to removal of cut.)
After solidification is done, remove rock from test tube, (or jar/glass)
and allow to dry, aided by some GENTLE heat from torch, or to be on the
safe side, use a bic lighter to avoid overheating, facilitated by
smaller flame, taking into account that if heated to strongly, the rock
will melt. It's Best to either lightly "brush" rock with Bic-lighter
flame set on low, or better & safer, but taking a bit longer to dry, is
to use a blow dryer set on low.
You will now have purified rock, however it will probably be a little
smaller than expected at first, but remember: cuts have been removed, so
the rock will be smaller in size than what initially went in, but it
will be pure, and thus, a smaller dose is required.
To smoke, the best pipe to use is the straight tube, w/ash on top of
steel wool, as depicted below. (Make sure you get the FINE steel wool,
NOT that brillo/pot-&-pan scrubber ****, as this material gives off
toxic fumes when heated. What's best is to go to your local hardware
store...
(which you'll have to go to anyway, to get the materials for the next
procedure; purifying powder/salt[-of-coke] for snorting or injecting)
....And get a piece of 1/2 inch (1/2 inch INTERNAL diameter) pipe, approx
3 - 5 inches long. Stainless Steel is the best, |----------------------|
|----------------------------------------------------------------------|
|
| (but hardest to find, & the most expensive, as well as usually only
| sold in anything between 3 - 5 foot lengths; cost: approx $20.00)
|
|--> Standard Steel is generally the norm, and makes a decent, durable &
HEALTHY-TO-USE pipe. Avoid copper, or brass if at all possible. Brass is
an ABSOLUTE no-no. Brass is copper alloyed (melted-down-&-mixed...) with
zinc. Zinc is quite volatile (tends to easily va****ize) at low
temperature, (ie: not very long until fumes are given off, quite
easilly, even w/the (fairly) low temperature of a lighter, thus after
only 3 - 5 sessions, you will be inhalling zinc, which, in addition to
corroding the lungs ac***ulates in the body, which has ABSOLUTELY NO way
to get rid of it beside heavily bleeding, as well as causing heavy-metal
poisoning. Copper will also give off fumes, albeit not as quickly,_...
(a copper pipe is good for 2 - 3 months, then discard & make a new one)
....But can be corroded by coke va****s, which are acidic in its core
chemical nature, (yes, freebase/rock/crack etc...too.) & the oxide
(rust-like coumpound) created is not something you want to be inhaling.
Still, in a nutshell: If you can get stainless steel, SPEND THE $$ & GET
IT! It's well worth it, & will last years. (The only thing better is a
piece of glass tubing; The straight tube is fine as iss, but if you are
nimble w/your hands, and have a blowtorch w/hotter fuel than propane...
(Propylene is good, commonly sold as "Brazing Fuel", or if you want to
spend $30.00, which is worth it because then you can get an Oxy-MAPP
torch...
(MAPP means _M_ethyl-_A_cetylene-something-or-other. [I forget what the
2 P's stand for] However, in plain english: it is basically a scaled
down version of the Oxy-Acetylene torch, A.K.A a welding and/or cutting
torch, meant for use in working & welding-&\or-cutting metal
(w/proper/specialized Cutting head/attachment)***
***= normal welding/"standard" torch head will look like a 1/4 - 1/2
inch thick bar w/a single, small 1/16 - 1/20 inch hole in the center:
*Will look something like this_|---> (*).
A cutting head/attachment will have a sort-of "crown" of holes on the
end,(where flame is emitted) in the form of small(1/16 - 1/20 inch
holes) in a circle around outer edge of torch-tip, w/a slightly larger
hole in the center...(see below)
. .
.. @[EMAIL PROTECTED]
.
. .
....The small holes around the outer edge,(the ".'s")are where the
general flame is emitted. (w/either endpiece, 1st the fuel
(MAPP/Acetylene) is turned on & lit w/a striker,
[flint attached to a springish "tong"-resembling device, w/a coarse
surface upon which to spark the flint]
....or if you don't mind the risk of singing your fingers, you can use a
cigarette lighter to ignite the fuel, which will initially burn as a
deeply colored (orangish) & very black-sooty/smoky/carbon-emitting
flame, & then the oxygen is turned on slowly, until a little blue flame:
"cone" ...
(flame base/bottom; just like a lighter flame has a blue base)
....protrudes 1/8 - 1/10 inch above the flame-emission hole(s). With a
standard...
(general welding/"working" endpiece; and thus: ...flame)
....Once the oxygen is adjusted to the proper level you can begin working
your metal, or in this case, glass-tube. *_|---|_*: With a cutting head,
as depicted(rather crudely, but, waddaya expect w/plain-txt?) above, the
"_.'s_" are the general flame emitters, forming a flame "crown" (of
flame 'cones') around the slightly larger center hole. (the "@[EMAIL PROTECTED]
") This is
to yield greater heating capacity. To cut:(metal) you heat the workpiece
with the "crown" util it gets red. Then, depressing a button/lever
causes the center hole to emit a jet-stream of pure oxygen which "cuts"...
(via a "controled" burning/oxidation; which by-way-of: the small size of
the oxygen-emission hole, & the "pressurized"/__and\or__straight flow,
(...or burst/jet/jet-stream[ed]) of the oxygen, as well as the small
diameter of O2 stream; 1/8 - 1/10 inch...allows you to cut/cut-by-
burning, a straight, & clean line along your workpiece...
....This can also(if nessecary) be done with glass,
(albeit, much greater care, control-of-flame, heat, reduced cutting
stream pressure...
(achieved by keeping torch @[EMAIL PROTECTED]
a slightly greater distance then for
cutting metal)
....& use of proper quality glass....:----\/
(cheap glass will crack, break-into-: large-jagged-shards-and\or have a
tendancy to form a jaged edge where cut was made, or flat-out shatter
into 1000 pieces.)
....Choose your glass, & source of it carefully. Pyrex is the best, but
great heat, (attained only by massively large-and-wastefull amounts of
fuel consumption)...however with a bit of practice, it is not that hard.
What IS hard however,(nearly IMPOSSIBLE) is to find a source of pyrex
tubes, & even harder is to find a supplier of said tubes that is willing
to A: deal-in/sell you*:---in the small quantities you will require,***
(as opposed to selling in bulk to an industrial buyer,-and\or-consumer)
***|__...* (*=__:) and B: Sell to you-a_civillian at all. Best thing is
to settle for the glass tubes available thru mail-order:
Amatuer-Hobbyist: Scientific Suppliers;(ie: a place that, say,
specialises in selling chemistry-sets/and\or-lab-_and\or_-glass_ware;
or, (rare, but locatable if you're determined) a hobbyist glassblowers
supply, or sometimes you can find a industrial glass dealer that's
willing to sell you a few lengths of glass tubing.
Anyhow, I have MAJORLY digressed. What ever you make your pipe out of:
there are 2 configurations that work well, myself, I prefer the straight
tube variety - Configuration #1: (glass is prefered, but make do w/what
you have)
|###|
|###| <------|: #'s_=Cigarette ash atop steel wool.
|###|
|###|
|***|
|***| <-----|: *'s_=Steel Wool, set inside, approx 1.5 - 2.5 inches
|***| down into pipe/tube.
|***|
| |
| |
[|_O_|] <---|Mouthpiece
TO PURIFY POWDER:
Go to a drug store, & get some ETHANOL-based rubbing alcohol. You will
have to specifically ask for it, but just tell them that you use it on,
say, your face, to dry out zits, remove make-up etc...And-The-KEY-Point:
Say that the smell of isopropanol makes you gag/vomit, etc. This will be
the peak of difficulty you should have to go thru.
Go to the hardware store, & buy some acetone, (solvent; paint section) &
some Hydrochloric acid, sold as "Muriatic acid", and used for etching
concrete, & cleaning ceramic tile. Finally, go to a gas station and buy
a can of "Starting Fluid". ---\/
....Spray the entire contents of can into a GLASS bottle. Record volume.
(ml's) Add an equal volume of water, cap bottle, & shake for 3-4 min,
w/frequent breaks, to loose cap, & release any built-up pressure. Then
allow to stand 2-3 min, until mixture separates into 2 layers. (like oil
& water) Pour off top layer into another clean glass bottle, and keep.
This is ether. Discard bottom(water & other adulterants) layer.
Prepare a 50/50 mixture of Acetone & Ethanol. For 1 gram of powder, add
powder to 10 - 15 ml's of the mixture. Add small ****tions of baking soda
until fizzing stops. Filter out cut, & any excess baking soda. Then
Take an eye dropper & add Hydrochloric acid to acetone/ethanol solution
until fizzing stops. The salt(Cocaine Hydrochloride A.K.A.:
Powder-crystals) will precipitate(UN-dissolve/come-out-of--) --out of
solution. Filter out w/coffe filter. Whilst still in filter, perform a
final rinse of the crystals, by pouring approx 15-20 ml's ether over
them. Discard solvents, & place crystals on a GLASS plate to dry. Drying
can be sped up by using: a heat-lamp, the oven: on-lowest-setting-w/door
-cracked-open, or a hair dryer: set on low, kept at a safe distance, so
as not to scatter your product, or better yet, w/adiffuser on it. (if
you don't know what a diffuser is, ask someone at a barber shop, & they
will show you what it is, how it works, & if the can't or won't sell you
one, they will know where you can buy one. (It's like a "muffler" for
the dryer, used for drying curly/permed...etc...hair, or said hair, or
ANY hair that's just been set.
....However you choose to dry your crystals, make sure your workspace is
WELL ventilated. Ether has a very distinctive odor, & can easily blow
your cover. Once dry, the crystals are good-to-go, & can be snorted, or
injected.
ENJOY!! ;)
|
